Wednesday, March 18, 2009

How I got my Malian driver’s license











My New York State driver’s license was due to expire on my birthday in January. Renewing it by mail presented with some logistical difficulties, and I got it into my head that I would get a Malian license. True, many bureaucratic procedures here are so convoluted that they make your brain swell up, but sometimes things are surprisingly easy (for example getting a visa). Getting a Malian license while having a current American one seemed simple enough, and Malé was going to set it all up for me. “Don’t worry about it,” he said, as I was letting my license expire, “it will not be problem”.

Soon it was somewhat of a problem: my birthday came, my license expired, and I did not have a new one yet. True, Malé had identified some Big Cheese from the Ministry of Roads and Transportation, and I had an audience coming up where “everything will be taken care of”, but it was still a week away. I had to get to and from work every day. (When in Rome do as the Romans, I know, but I refuse to join the ranks and drive around without a valid license. The traffic here is so precarious, and one is always just a millisecond away from running over a goat / child / donkey / pedestrian / chicken / moped / dog, and if that happens I would rather have a valid license on me, thank you very much.)

In preparation for my meeting with the BC I had to prepare my “dossier”. I had to submit four photos, a copy of my birth certificate, and also a Certificate of Residence from the police station in my neighborhood. No problem: those items were easy enough to supply. Once submitted though, I was told that since I was a foreigner I would have to get my birth certificate officially translated, and also go to my Embassy and get a ‘Residence Card’ from them. (The photos were fine.) I had my birth certificate translated, and then I went to the fort-like US Embassy. I was told that there is no such thing as a ‘Residence Card’. When told, the BC said that in that case they would take a ‘work certificate’, which turned out to be a letter signed by Malé, stating that I worked with him. Ok, so far no problem.

Meeting the BC kept being delayed for different reasons, and for two weeks I had to rely on Malé or my sister (who had just arrived from Berlin) or somebody else to drive me to work. Finally: the Big Day for my meeting with the BC! I had no idea what to expect, and neither did Malé, but I was really looking forward to getting my license.

We had to be at the MINISTRY OF ROADS AND TRANSPORTATION OFFICE OF LICENSES AND REGISTRATION FOR TRUCKS, CARS, MOTORCYCLES AND MOPEDS, INSPECTIONS AND TECHNICAL VISITS, AND MANHOLE COVERS at 7am. Apparently approximately 300 men and women also had the same instructions: the place was teeming. I still was not sure about what actually would take place, so I just followed Malé as he went around the building to the back door. The BC had just arrived with his entourage, and after a quick meet & greet I was ushered through some offices, and into a large room. The room had several metal benches and some random chairs, all facing the front of the room. Funny, I thought, what am I going to be doing here?

I waited for about 1 ½ hours. Nothing much to do expect stare at the bare, cracked, turquoise-colored walls, the stacks of papers and files on the floor, the dust that had settled on everything, and watch the wobbly ceiling fan … A good opportunity to contemplate the absence of 45 degree angles in Mali! When I was sure that the metal bars of the bench had left a permanent imprint on my behind, a second door was opened. People were called up, and one by one they piled into the room. Soon the room was filled up, all the seats were taken. I realized that I would have to share my little desk with one other person, and I scooted over for a young woman.

I soon realized that according to Malian standards the room was only half full, and more and more people joined us. Soon we were packed shoulder to shoulder. Matter of fact, we (me and the other three people sharing my little desk) had to turn our shoulders a little sideways, one arm on the desk in front of us, the other behind our back, in order to fit onto the bench and be able to write! By now I realized that I was about to participate in a full-fledged Malian written driver’s examination. In French, of course, and in Bambara for those of us not fluent in French!

The BC was the examiner that day, and he proceeded to explain the test taking procedure to us. There would be 30 questions based on photos of traffic scenarios projected onto the cracked, dusty, turquoise wall. We would have to get 20 correct answers in order to be able to take the road test. (Road test???) He would read the question and the possible answers (for those who speak French but cannot read and write), and then he would translate them into Bambara (for those who can neither speak French nor read and write). He did not specifically say what he would do for those who can read and write, but do not speak a word of Bambara, and only marginally speak French, and certainly not enough to pass a drivers examination - like me!

The BC began to project the images onto the wall. Nothing could have been further removed from what the street scenes look like here in Mali. There were photos of working traffic lights, pedestrian crossings clean streets, legible road signs, and cars with functioning head lights. I wasn’t sure how anybody was even going to relate to the images…?! When the slide showed a French pastoral countryside in dense fog, and the question was about using the fog lights, my mouth just dropped open. Fog??? Fog lights??? People here are barely using headlights, and there has never been any fog here. The smoke of burning garbage, maybe, or the dust of a passing herd of cows, but fog? The young lady next to me noticed my open mouth, and she nudged me and showed me her answer for that slide. Clearly she thought that I needed all the help that I can get. I tried to stay focused on the rest of the questions, but my mind was racing with ideas for a REAL Malian driver’s test, one with culturally relevant images and questions: What do you do when stopped by a flock of sheep? Which hand signal do you use to when your indicator signal is not working? How often should you honk your horn when a car stalls in front of you? What do you do when the ram tied to your car’s roof suddenly breaks lose …?

My behind was numb when finally I was able to step out into the court yard after sitting in that room for 4 hours. On my way out the BC approached me and told me to come back at 16:00 for the road test. I smiled tensely and told him that I would be there. But I had doubts: was I really ready for a Malian road test? Was I supposed to drive like I was taught, you know, like follow the rules and obey the signals? Or was I supposed to drive like everybody else here? What about parking? Should I show him how I learned parallel parking in Germany, or should I just ram my car headfirst into a space like the drivers do here? I just felt confused about the whole thing …

After lunch I felt much better. Yes! I was definitely up for the challenge. I would show the BC some awesome parallel parking, and my driving style would be eclectic: a little Bamako-cows and sheep on the street-death wish and a dash of New York-Dominican-cab driver-attitude, but firmly anchored in place by German-driver’s lessons-anno 1983!

We arrived before 16:00, and soon the BC emerged from the building. He settled into my car. I was eager and determined to impress him. My request to fasten the seatbelt was dismissed by the BC with a wave of his left hand. With his right hand he signaled me forward, pointing between the two trees that were in front of us. Aha, he clearly wanted to see if I get to the other side of the compound without running into the trees. (No problem, just wait until I show you my parallel parking!) Once past the trees we were heading towards the wall that surrounds the compound, so I decided to be proactive and ask him if he wanted me to turn left or right. A lazy wave towards his right told me all I needed to know. I decided to signal, but I had my doubts: was I overdoing it? (We were, after all, the only car here, the only moving object, except for some grazing sheep.) Well, I could always attribute it to my German obsessive-compulsive driving lessons… Now he signaled me towards where Malé was standing next to his car. I thought, oh good, now we will pick up Malé and head into town for some parallel parking and all that good stuff. But to my surprise (and disappointment) the BC got out the car, exchanged some words with Malé, and went into the building ...

And this is how I became the proud (?) owner of a Malian driver’s license, valid for life, all classes and categories: trucks, mopeds, bikes, etc. And when you come and visit me in Bamako we will take a spin, I will make sure to show off my parallel parking skills!

24 comments:

Anonymous said...

You have such a beautiful way of writing. I stumbled upon your blog looking for information on Mali. I love your love stories and your adventures. Congratulations on taking such a huge step in life and making such a change!

Take care and keep us posted.

Helen

Grace W. said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Grace W. said...

Hello there. I've been reading your blog and I'm captivated by your journeys in Mali. Hope you're doing well, and looking forward to reading more about your life in Mali.

Anonymous said...

Hi. I found your blog by accident and was wondering how life is going for you. Your story is fascinating and I hope you come back to posting soon.

Anonymous said...

Hi, I found your blog while searching Mali ex-pats. Your story sounded so much like my own, but with a far happier ending - I too sold a business, gave away my cat and moved to Africa to be with a man I had fallen in love with in Ghana. When I arrived in Ghana I found my place usurped by another woman and no place to go. Having been in love with Africa all my life, I started traveling and ended up in Tumbucto, alone and happy. After several months I returned to the U.S. I plan to go back home to Africa once I finish school and have a skill (surgical technican) that I can offer the lovely people of Mali. I have not seen a blog from you for some time and hope that you are well. Greeting to Male and the rest of your family and friends in Mali. Judy (my blog is www.judyboothafrica.blogspot.com. Take care.

Anonymous said...

I've visited Mali twice and reading your blog remind me of the time I spent there. I hope to return this year to be with the man I love. Reading your story gives me hope that things can work out. Hope you start writing again soon!

From Quebec, Canada

Anonymous said...

Your blog keeps getting better and better! Your older articles are not as good as newer ones you have a lot more creativity and originality now keep it up!

Anonymous said...

I'm the kind of hombre who enjoys to seek unprecedented stuff. Right now I am manufacturing my private pv panels. I am making it all by myself without the aid of my staff. I'm using the net as the only path to acheive this. I encountered a very brilliant site which explains how to create solar panels and wind generators. The site explains all the steps required to constructing pv panels.

I am not sure about how precise the info given there iz. If some people over here who had experience with these works can have a look and give your feedback in the page it would be grand and I would highly treasure it, cauze I really take an interest in [URL=http://solar-panel-construction.com]solar panel construction[/URL].

Tnx for reading this. You people are great.

Anonymous said...

[url=http://vegasonlines.net/tribe-casino.html]casino bonuses [/url]
[url=http://vegasonlines.net/potawatomi-casino.html]nuevo casino juego [/url]
[url=http://vegasonlines.net/ceasars-casino.html]casino playboy tv [/url]
[url=http://vegasonlines.net/horizon-casino-resort.html]casino http adult casino com [/url]
[url=http://vegasonlines.net/casino-in-louisiana.html]as picas casino asturias [/url]
[url=http://vegasonlines.net/las-vegas-nv-casino.html]azar casino [/url]
[url=http://vegasonlines.net/top-online-casino.html]download casino offline game [/url]
[url=http://vegasonlines.net/hampton-casino-ballroom.html]apostar casino ganar [/url]
[url=http://vegasonlines.net/deposit-on-line-casino.html]letra de casino en tus manos [/url]
[url=http://vegasonlines.net/mille-lacs-casino.html]aladdin resort and casino in vegas [/url]
[url=http://vegasonlines.net/hinckley-casino-minnesota.html]madrid casino gran madrid [/url]
[url=http://taskmap.com/communityserver/members/casino_2D00_gamblings_2D00_online.aspx]trabajo y empleo de croupier en casino [/url]
[url=http://vegasonlines.net/chip-casino-michigan.html]puerto vallarta casino night [/url]
[url=http://vegasonlines.net/casino-for-sale.html]morango resort casino [/url]
[url=http://vegasonlines.net/palms-casino.html]internet casino http 2007onlinecasinos com [/url]
video poker casino
[b]video juego casino[/b]
juego casino internet ruleta
ponce hilton ponce golf casino resort
[b]casino guide http adult casino com[/b]
eurobet casino
[u]casino park[/u]
mejor casino online
casino internet online
[b]niagara fall ont casino niagara[/b]
vegas horseshoe casino
myway game and casino

Anonymous said...

Good fill someone in on and this post helped me alot in my college assignement. Gratefulness you on your information.

Anonymous said...

Genial brief and this mail helped me alot in my college assignement. Thank you as your information.

Anonymous said...

Predilection casinos? affirm this untested [url=http://www.realcazinoz.com]casino[/url] advisor and good deed evasively online casino games like slots, blackjack, roulette, baccarat and more at www.realcazinoz.com .
you can also into our current [url=http://freecasinogames2010.webs.com]casino[/url] police at http://freecasinogames2010.webs.com and close in on a victory in displace constrictive currency !
another stylishness [url=http://www.ttittancasino.com]casino spiele[/url] conspire is www.ttittancasino.com , because german gamblers, blunder in unrestrained online casino bonus.

Anonymous said...
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
baresytapas said...

I came to this blog by accident, but I found very interesting. Greetings to all the people who visit this page.

Viaggio Mali said...

Great blog, great life!!!

Anonymous said...

Thank you a lot for sharing this with all of us you actually recognise what you're speaking about! Bookmarked. Kindly additionally visit my web site =). We will have a hyperlink trade arrangement among us

My page - tumblr

Anonymous said...

Incredible story therе. What occurred aftеr?
Take care!

Here iѕ mу blog; Login

Anonymous said...

I do not even know how I ended up here, but I thought this post was good.
I don't know who you are but definitely you are going to a famous blogger if you aren't already ;) Cheers!


my web site; book of ra download free

Anonymous said...

Thanks for sharing your thoughts about book of ra kostenlos spielen online.
Regards

Also visit my web-site: sizzling hot deluxe tricks

Anonymous said...

Hello, Neat post. There's an issue along with your site in web explorer, might check this? IE nonetheless is the marketplace chief and a good part of folks will omit your fantastic writing because of this problem.

Here is my web site book of ra online spielen kostenlos ohne anmeldung ohne download

Anonymous said...

Great delivery. Great arguments. Keep up the great spirit.


my web blog ... book ra testen

Anonymous said...

Thanks for ones marvelous posting! I actually enjoyed reading it, you can be a great author.
I will make sure to bookmark your blog and will often come back very soon.
I want to encourage yourself to continue your great job, have
a nice afternoon!

Feel free to surf to my web page: book of ra kostenlos spielen

Anonymous said...

Appreciating the dedication you put into your blog and detailed information you
offer. It's great to come across a blog every once in a while that isn't the same outdated
rehashed material. Excellent read! I've saved your site and I'm adding your RSS
feeds to my Google account.

Also visit my site: book of ra app android free download []

Anonymous said...

Way cool! Some very valid points! I appreciate you penning this write-up plus the rest of the site is very good.


Also visit my blog post :: book of ra kostenlos spielen
ohne anmeldung []